* * * * *

But the light is failing and the shore is nearing.  Life-belts are taken off, the destroyers have disappeared.  We are on the quay, kindly welcomed by an officer from G.H.Q. who passes our bags rapidly through the Custom House, and carries us off to a neighbouring hotel for the night, it being too late for the long drive to G.H.Q.  We are in France again!—­and the great presence of the army is all about us.  The quay crowded with soldiers, the port alive with ships, the grey-blue uniforms mingling with the khaki—­after a year I see it again, and one’s pulses quicken.  The vast “effort of England” which last year had already reached so great a height, and has now, as all accounts testify, been so incredibly developed, is here once more in visible action, before me.

Next day, the motor arrives early, and with our courteous officer who has charge of us, in front, we are off, first, for one of the great camps I saw last year, and then for G.H.Q. itself.  On the way, as we speed over the rolling down country beyond the town, my eyes are keen to catch some of the new signs of the time.  Here is the first—­a railway line in process of doubling—­and large numbers of men, some of them German prisoners, working at it; typical both of the immense railway development all over the military zone, since last year, and of the extensive use now being made of prisoners’ labour, in regions well behind the firing line.  They lift their heads, as we pass, looking with curiosity at the two ladies in the military car.  Their flat round caps give them an odd similarity.  It is as if one saw scores of the same face, differentiated here and there by a beard.  A docile hard-working crew, by all accounts, who give no trouble, and are managed largely by their N.C.O.’s.  Are there some among them who saw the massacre at Dinant, the terrible things in Lorraine?  Their placid, expressionless faces tell no tale.

But the miles have flown, and here already are the long lines of the camp.  How pleasant to be greeted by some of the same officers!  We go into the Headquarters Office, for a talk.  “Grown?  I should think we have!” says Colonel——.  And, rapidly, he and one of his colleagues run through some of the additions and expansions.  The Training Camp has been practically doubled, or, rather, another training camp has been added to the one that existed last year, and both are equipped with an increased number of special schools—­an Artillery Training School, an Engineer Training School, a Lewis Gun School, a Gas School, with an actual gas chamber for the training of men in the use of their gas helmets,—­and others, of which it is not possible to speak.  “We have put through half a million of reinforcements since you were here last.”  And close upon two million rations were issued last month!  The veterinary accommodation has been much enlarged, and two Convalescent Horse Depots have been added—­(it is good indeed to see with what kindness and thought