all sorts of costly wares.  There was a continual current of passengers up and down on both sides of the way, and in the middle of the street carriages of every description, humble and splendid.  The noise was great and ceaseless; the traffic continual.  Some of the shops were most brilliantly lighted, attracting one’s eyes in the sombre light outside, which, however, had just enough of day in it to make these spots of illumination look sickly.  Most of the places thus distinguished were apparently bright with the electric or some other scientific light; and delicate machines of every description, brought to the greatest perfection, were in some windows, as were also many fine productions of art, but mingled with the gaudiest and coarsest in a way which struck me with astonishment.  I was also much surprised by the fact that the traffic, which was never stilled for a moment, seemed to have no sort of regulation.  Some carriages dashed along, upsetting the smaller vehicles in their way, without the least restraint or order, either, as it seemed, from their own good sense or from the laws and customs of the place.  When an accident happened, there was a great shouting, and sometimes a furious encounter; but nobody seemed to interfere.  This was the first impression made upon me.  The passengers on the pavement were equally regardless.  I was myself pushed out of the way, first to one side, then to another, hustled when I paused for a moment, trodden upon and driven about.  I retreated soon to the doorway of a shop, from whence with a little more safety I could see what was going on.  The noise made my head ring.  It seemed to me that I could not hear myself think.  If this were to go on forever, I said to myself, I should soon go mad.

‘Oh, no,’ said some one behind me, ’not at all.  You will get used to it; you will be glad of it.  One does not want to hear one’s thoughts; most of them are not worth hearing.’

I turned round and saw it was the master of the shop, who had come to the door on seeing me.  He had the usual smile of a man who hoped to sell his wares; but to my horror and astonishment, by some process which I could not understand, I saw that he was saying to himself, ’What a d——­d fool! here’s another of those cursed wretches, d——­ him!’ all with the same smile.  I started back, and answered him as hotly, ’What do you mean by calling me a d——­d fool? fool yourself, and all the rest of it.  Is this the way you receive strangers here?’

‘Yes,’ he said with the same smile, ’this is the way; and I only describe you as you are, as you will soon see.  Will you walk in and look over my shop?  Perhaps you will find something to suit you if you are just setting up, as I suppose.’

I looked at him closely, but this time I could not see that he was saying anything beyond what was expressed by his lips:  and I followed him into the shop, principally because it was quieter than the street, and without any intention of buying,—­for what should I buy in a strange place where I had no settled habitation, and which probably I was only passing through?